Making my way to Bhaktapur on a slow and crowded bus ride to witness the annual Bisket Jatra festival, I was excited to spend the New Year in the old city. True to form the bus ride took twice as long as expected, but was worth the journey. Jatra is an annual Newari festival that falls on the 10th or 9th of April every year, according to the solar calendar, and runs for eight days. This festival is based on a religious myth. The king of Bhaktapur wanted to marry his daughter off, but after every time he made a match, the groom to be would be found dead in the martial bed.  A stranger happened to hear of this repeating occurrence and desired to take the chance with this deadly woman. After making love to the princess two deadly serpents came from her nose to attack this new husband, but he killed the snakes just in time and broke the spell.  Biska, in Newari means both snake and death, hence the name of the festival.
    Descending down a steep cobble stone path, I made my way to the on-goings of the festival.  Groups of men of all ages, totaling anywhere from eight to twenty played drums, flutes, cymbals, and their hands to celebrate this joyous occasion.  A large pole with two long banners, also known as Yoshin pole, was erected in the middle of the square. It is said that these two banners represent the snakes that the stranger slayed and the long erect pole the female sex organ. People crowded around the base of the pole and at the end of the two banners which had bells attached, throwing rice and placing offerings--bringing themselves good luck and good fortune in the coming year.  
    Along side the Yoshin pole, two chariots can be found. These chariots house the Bhairab, which is the earth in male form- and the Bhadrakali, which is the sky in female from. Like many festivals in Nepal, the Bisket Jatra is multi faceted. It is believed that the Bisket Jatra also represents the mating of the sky and earth that resulted in the creation of humanity. At midnight tonight, on New Years Day, they will be wheeled to the center of Nayapole temple where the two chariots will crash into each other symbolizing copulation. But right now in mid-day offerings by devotees of rice and rupees, flowers, tikka, and the beheading of chickens occur at the still chariot of Bhairab. Small children and adolescent boys lounge around both chariots taking the money that the devotes had placed as offerings. I still to this day do not understand this act as it looks like blatant disrespect to me. But anyway in the heat of the day the temples where bustling with motorcycles, women with plates of offerings, Newari bands popping out from every small ally way, taxis, buses, and mobs of people made the beginning of the year 2066 a joyous and memorable occasion.
For more information about Bisket Jatra and other annual festivals and happenings at  Bhaktapur please visit Bhaktapur Tourism Development Committee at www.btddc.com.np or email them at info@btdc.com.np or btdc90@yahoo.com or call them at +977-16614822