Janakpur Women’s Workshop

            Riding on the buses in Nepal is usually an adventure in itself, but when you make the decision to board an overnight bus in Nepal, nothing ever goes as planned. Preparing to visit Janakpur in the Terai Region of Nepal, which borders India, I boarded an overnight bus on a Monday night unprepared and unsure of what was really in store.

            The bus left from the new bus terminal a quick stop outside of Thamel, and luckily my friend and I were privileged enough to occupy the two front seats, a pleasant surprise after usually being seated in the most tumultuous spot in the back of the bus. Feeling like we hit the jackpot and appreciative of our ample leg room and plush seats we settled in to the bus with ease, put our feet up and prepared for the long journey ahead.

            Not long after we departed our bus was already at a standstill just minutes out of Thamel, glued to its rightful place in the road where we remained for the next two hours slowly inching along with the honking horns. Fortunately due to lack of sleep during the week I was fast asleep with swift speed, that is, until the boys in charge decided to put on the newest Bollywood hit on the big screen up front, right in front of our seats. Typical of most long bus rides in Nepal and India, the entertainment usually consists of the longest Bollywood films you can find, and as per usual this ride lived up to the standard.

            Five hours after the singing and dancing of the movie ceased we were still on the road well into the morning, exhausted and behind schedule but eager to settle in and explore the bustling city.

            Janakpur is one of the larger tourist destinations in the Eastern Terai, but most of the tourists are actually pilgrims from India who travel from far and wide to visit the famous Janaki Temple which is situated in the heart of the city. Janakpur is also well renowned for the story of Sita and Rama’s marriage four centuries ago, which is also the dedication of the Janaki temple.

            Another draw to this whimsical town is the prevalence of Mhitili culture and the famous traditional Mhitili painting which is practiced throughout Nepal. The paintings depict traditional village life, colorful caricatures of different animals and people, and typical scenes found in a Nepali household. The paintings are usually produced on different craft items such as hand made paper, canvas, boxes, and larger trunks for storage.

            Arriving in Janakpur was a bit like taking a step back into India, minus the auto rickshaws, but equip with everything else typical of a busy Indian city; the pedaling cycle rickshaws, meandering cows, colorful saris, and loads of shops stacked high with sweets and other supplies. I was ecstatic to be back in a place that felt so familiar but was still full of surprises.

            We finally arrived around 8 in the morning and made our way to the house we would be moving into for the next two days. Greeted warmly by host mom, Rena, we were swept upstairs to our bedroom which was ready and waiting for us to lay down for a nap as Rena immediately prepared steaming hot cups of tea for us.

            The friend accompanying me is also the co-founder of Global Daughter, a fair trade organization working in conjunction with women artisans in Nepal. Global Daughter is linked up with Rena, who runs a women’s workshop in the basement of her home in Janakpur, also the woman who so graciously hosted us for our three day visit.

            The workshop has been up and running for around 20 years and employs around 80 women in Janakpur and Kathmandu. On average at least 20 women work directly in the workshop everyday, arriving at 10am and staying well through the day toiling away on different art projects. The working environment is clean, comfortable, and safe for the women and Rena provides consistent support throughout the day ensuring they have adequate rest and breaks for lunch.

            As the women were hard at work we were able to sit in the room with them and observe their painting and work, and just interact. Many of the women are not educated and therefore do not speak English or Nepali, but rather Maithili, which is the local dialect spoken in Janakpur and some parts of the Eastern Terai. The women immediately made us feel comfortable and were so deeply involved in their work they were not disturbed by our presence. It was fascinating watching them at work, and using their creativity in such different mediums. None of the pieces have a set landscape, and the women have the freedom to create the artwork at their own pace and using their own ideas and style.

            For the remainder of the two days it was a mix of relaxing with Rena’s adorable kids at the house, watching the women at work, and exploring Janakpur. The city is a fascinating mix of Nepali and Indian culture, blending the two into a colorful whirlwind of brilliantly colored saris and sizzling samosas at the street vendors stall. It felt very refreshing to be the only foreigners in a small town, and our presence felt openly welcomed by all the people we encountered along the way. We spent one night browsing the amazing bangle market lining the street by the circular pond in the middle of town, and another night sitting on a rooftop restaurant with friends and watching the night life traffic buzz by bellow us.

            I found Janakpur to be a charming town with an interesting mix of the two cultures blended at the border. I was sad to leave and return to the land of Kathmandu, but excited to be back in my own apartment again. We opted for the early morning bus ride on Thursday rather than subjecting ourselves to another 14 hour night bus ride. However, the day time bus also had more adventures in store for us.

            As we rumbled along the East West Highway through the flat planes of the Terai, we eventually slowed to a stand still around four hours into the ride. At the peak of mid day heat, we had arrived just in time to hit the Bhunda, or strike, of the day in the Terai. Rolling to a complete stop in the middle of the highway, surrounded by dozens of giant trucks, buses, and motor bikes, we were soon informed the standstill could last anywhere from two to five hours.

            Contemplating our options, and after a half an hour of witnessing the lethargic mood spreading through the crowd, we decided to do something rather than sit around in the heat. So making a deal with our bus driver to pick us up down the road if they ever got moving, we picked up our bags and began the 30 km walk to Hetauda, the next town hub along the highway.

            Luckily we were only walking for around thirty minutes when we reached the end of the truck line up and spotted a passenger bus loading people, facing the same direction we were walking. We managed to bargain our way onto a seat and were soon on our way to the next destination.

            Four hours later we arrived in Hetauda where we caught a jeep leaving for Kathmandu within the hour. On a diet of cheese balls and coke, feeling exhausted and dirty, we were more than anxious to get home. The jeep ride was swift, comfortable, and provided hours of stunning landscape, and we still beat our original bus driver back to the city.

            While Janakpur is definitely more than a short drive away, if you have the funds the flight takes no less than ten minutes. Janakpur is definitely worth a visit, at least for the people watching, thousands of beautiful bangles, and a break from Kathmandu. Just make sure you pack light in the case of Bhanda’s, and bring an ample supply of mosquito repellent, they fly in swarms down in the Terai!