Blog Posts

Off the beaten trek in Manang's hidden valleys into a flood



WANDA VIVEQUIN

'When you come around the corner, you will see a sight that will move your soul.' So wrote my Sirdar in an email to me after his reconnaissance trip into the Nar Phu valleys in August 2005.



Two months later, I laid eyes on the village of Phu. Like a medieval castle it rises almost 40m above a dusty riverbed. Steep walls eroded by relentless wind and weather protect the 30-40 basic stone houses sheltered behind, built atop one another like a vertical jigsaw puzzle. It had taken us over a week to walk to Phu, following the Annapurna C + Read More

Kathmandu's tourist hub is waiting for a rebound



PANKAJ RAYAMAJHI

It is 10.30 PM in Thamel and things are heating up in the most entertaining and possibly the most dangerous, corner of Kathmandu. The latest Bollywood hits blare from dance bars competing with live bands playing rock n roll covers. The music adds to the cacophony of a traffic jam as irate drivers lean hard on horns.

The air smells of exhaust and food from hawkers selling momos, chiya and bread omelettes. Drug dealers, some from as far away as Africa, peddle their wares: Hash, you want marijuana, pot? Transvestites and eunuchs flirt with groups of Nepali men looking for + Read More

Restoration of democracy revives hopes for development in Nepals remotest region



KUNDA DIXIT in HUMLA

At night, when the district capital of Simkot is in darkness, across the valley the village of Langduk is all lit up.


Children do their homework under fluorescent lamps and their parents watch tv from a cable network. The contrast between Langduk and Simkot is emblematic of the hope and despair in this remote district on the northwestern tip of Nepal.

Simkot is still dark because a 500 kilowatt powerplant on the Hildung River lies half complete and abandoned. D + Read More

Excerpt from the not-so-lonely planet guide to Nepal



JIGME GATON in BIRGANJ

For those of you looking for a good weekend trip out of the Valley and sick of walking up and down mountains, here is a tip: take your motorbike and head for the plains.

Birganj is hot: 42 degrees, humid and closed down for two days last week by the Hindutva wallahs. You should go now before the road is washed away by the monsoon. My preferred mode of travel is by Royal Enfield but your Hero Honda will do.

The route is simple, once you get past Checkpoint Thankot (still unmanned) + Read More

"How much rain did we see in the past two weeks?" I asked my trekking partner, Sam Voolstra, who came walking with me to the Annapurnas during this year's monsoon season.

I would say about one or two hours at the most, the marketing director of the Last Resort in Kathmandu replied. On this instance the skies suddenly opened and drenched u + Read More