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If you arrive in Kathmandu at Tihar time (October 27-29, 2008), it will appear that the entire city is one big street party – and for a couple of magical, lamp-lit dancing days it truly is.  Tihar is the Nepali version of Diwali (Dipwali), the Hindu festival of lights. Like all such festivals (Hannukah, for example, or Halloween with its jack-o-lanterns) it occurs at a “darkening” stage of the seasons – at the close of harvest and before the onset of winter. In the case of Nepal, it also falls on the Nepal Sambat or Newar New Year. Here in Nepal it’s not only 2008, but 1129. The formal religious traditions associated with Tihar centre around worship of Sri Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth and abundance. Colour prints depicting the goddess (along with Saraswati, goddess of learning and Ganesh, the elephant-headed obstacle remover) are sold on every street corner, as are milk sweets, nuts, candles, oil lamps and tinsel garlands. But more immediately, Tihar is a time for buying new clothes and presents, cooking specific festival foods and most importantly, visiting your relations. Families decked in their new holiday clothes float from house to house, the golden sequins of the saris glittering in lamplight. Young children perform a kind of Nepali caroling called Deusi Bhailo, roving from house to house singing and dancing in exchange for small money. The more restless teenage boys set off “crackers” (Chinese-style noisemaking fireworks) in the streets, the shotgun sounds often going well into midnight.  Shoppes and doorways are draped in thick ropes of saffron marigold flowers. Every entrance features a welcoming oil-lamp and rangoli design to invite the goddess Lakshmi inside. Candles flicker in windows and many building-fronts are covered in fairy-lights reminded Western visitors of Christmas.
Three Days of Tihar Here in Nepal, the first of the three days – which are always the days prior to, the day of and following the new moon of Hindu month Kartik (which falls in October-November) – are allotted not only to goddess Lakshmi, but to various animals. You may not notice Day One, which is dedicated to the ubiquitous crows. Households scatter special grain treats for the bird population and the streets are filled with people completing last-minute shopping for the festival. On Day Two, however, you can’t fail to enjoy Kukuur Tihar or Dog’s Tihar. Local dogs, even street dogs are honored with tikka (the red powder mark on forehead), flower garlands and snacks. The Nepal Police take the day to honour their canine force on Kukuur Tihar. The second day is also the major day for Lakshmi Puja, when at dusk, every house will ritually invite the goddess inside with lamps, rangoli designs and flowers. Day Three is designated Govardhan Puja to honour the cows, who are officially still protected from slaughter by the remnants of Nepal’s original Hindu laws. A festival of only three days would be quite short in Nepal, and indeed, there is more to come. The fourth day is Mha Puja as celebrated by the local Newar community – a family gathering around a ritual meal which blesses the individual’s self and body for the coming year. Mha Puja is conducted by the nakhin, or elder woman of the house. If you are fortunate enough to befriend a Newar family, no doubt you will be invited to participate in Mha Puja, an inside look at the ancient culture of the Kathmandu Valley. Nepalis, like other South Asians, then celebrate Bhai Tikka the following day. Bhai Tikka is yet another day reinforcing strong family ties, this time between sisters and brothers. All siblings must return to the parental home where sisters bless and honour their brothers with tikka and presents. Again, Bhai Tikka is a beautiful occasion to experience with a local family, and Nepalis are so friendly you may find yourself with conflicting invitations! Should you be invited to a Nepali house for a Tihar meal, make sure to practice two phrases: Tapai ko dipawali shubha Kamana huns! (I wish you a happy Diwali) And “Pugyo!” which means, “Enough” – otherwise your festival plate will be filled repeatedly. Tihar is truly a time of abundance. |
